If the paint adheres without bleed-through, you can paint without priming. Follow the basic steps of clean, sand, prime, paint. Wait overnight for the first coat of chalk paint to dry, then apply a second coat. Because chalky surface can scratch more easily, protect your paint job with a polyurethane top coat. Allow it to dry overnight, then lightly sand any rough areas with a grit sandpaper.
Repeat this step if necessary, applying a second thin polyurethane top coat and sanding any rough areas the next day. Disclosure: BobVila.
You agree that BobVila. This will help remove any particles and residue left by the sandpaper. Make sure to use shellac or an oil-based primer when you paint over stained wood. Oil-based primers help protect wood surfaces better than water-based primers. When priming, use a foam brush and foam roller to get the best results. After your primed wood is fully dry, take a fresh tack cloth and wipe away any remaining wet spots.
Similar to Step 2, do not use a paper towel to wipe down the wood. After priming the wood, the next step is to paint it. Grab a fresh foam roller and apply at least three coats of either latex or oil-based paint. Oil-based paint is great for high traffic areas like decks and porches because it lasts longer and offers maximum protection. Make sure to allow six hours of drying time in between coats of paint.
During this time, inspect the wood for any clumped leftover paint residue that needs to be removed with a tack cloth before the paint dries completely. The best option is using a Polcrylic Protective Finish that can be applied with a cloth or aerosol spray, depending on the brand. I did not sand away all of the original paint, just what wasnt sound. Recently I applied some oil based stain on part, but it looks weird. Can I use some more rustoleum spray paint over the stain?
Well, what to do now? That is what I would still do at this point: try to get it all off. Buy or borrow a pressure washer and blast it well…spread cloths all around because paint chips will really fly away. Then that primer and any exterior paint you want.
No to the spray cans. That paint is just not going to bond. Best of luck! Any advice would be appreciated. Removing anything like this is misery, I agree. Well, it may be the case that the label is telling you to strip to protect themselves. With a good bonding primer, I would think the paint you want to use is going to be fine. I put it on this post and others if you read more. That first coat is so important.
After that, whatever deck paint you like is fine. I like Tough Shield by Ben Moore. I know sanding is a drag, but a quick light sand just to scuff up the old finish will greatly improve the bonding. Use STIX primer for the best bonding. If you just refuse to sand, use the liquid de-glosser, but that is very toxic stuff.
Then yes, clean very well and prime and paint. Because the piano is yrs old I have no idea what kind of stain it is but used zinsser primer before I knew more about primers and even with two coats, the primer is basically reddish pink because of the bleed through.
Should I sand the primer off if possible and use a different primer? OR can I just prime over the first primer? What primer should I use? Ok, you can save this.
First, test your gray and check the bleeding. It may not bleed. Primers are different, so you may be ok as of now. If the stain bleeds into your paint, sand the primer well with 80 grit sand paper or so…—just smooth, but no, not off, and put the alcohol-based Kilz, not the water-based Kilz on.
One coat, and then test. This Kilz is the very best there is. All these coats will build up so sand lightly between coats to keep it even and smooth— grit for in between coats. Thank you for a very informative post. This has been very helpful as I tackle painting stained wood in a few remaining areas of my built in house. My question is, what process do you recommend for fixing this? Should I sand the now white trim, and following the same process you outlined for prepping to paint over stained wood or do something else?
Thanks for the help! Unfortunately I am not in a financial position to hire another painter to do this job. Of the 2 main problems in painting over stain and other weird stuff, bonding and bleeding, it seems you are talking about bonding right? That the paint is chipping easily. In that case, yes, start over in those areas like new. Sand, great quality bonding primer Stix is the one for me and lightly sand between coats.
The problem will come: the paint keeps chipping in the areas you have not re-done. I would probably set up a bucket with my go-to tools for when you see a chip that bugs you.
Hi, My questions are this. We have a cedar deck. Never been painted or stained untill recently. It looks like it was just primed, not finished. So what we want to do is stain the deck and railing a darker stain. The floor that is stained can we just put a darker stain over that?? Any comments would be helpful. Thank you! I think it might be possible, altho you will not have the same look as if there was never any white. Here is my advice: take some wood that is the same age and type. Put some white on some and not on others.
Let dry. Then coat all with what you are planning. There will be your result. Always do testing until you are sure of the result: terrible to get into it and be stuck. Good luck, B. Hello, so I bought a pergola that I thought was natural wood, but come to find out it is a stained cedar wood. I want to know if i am able to paint it white and if so how do i go about doing it.
If just stained, you could prime with PrimeLock and paint. I cannot really tell you … have an old pro painter look at it in person. Hi, Brad. Stupid me, I prepped the stained trim and two doors with sanding and cleaning grease off. Got done and realized I had opened the wrong can and had used Advance finish paint. Can I sand the Advance with a fine grit after it is good and dry and apply the Stix or will I run into bonding trouble? Short of trying to strip it all off what will be the best way to do this?
You may be ok. If it is hard to get off, you got lucky with the bonding. If not, scrape it all and power sand etc… then Stix. Only 2 doors tho. They were white, but chipping lead paint so we stripped off the lead paint and then primed.
Even after several coats of the shellac based primer, the doors are more pink than white. Oddly enough, the old white paint we stripped off had NO bleed through. Any suggestions for how to fix this? Bin shellac that is alcohol based or water based?
The waterbased is not as effective. What could they have used? You have me there. Did you wear a respirator and clean up well. I hope so! Read my post hear on lead if you have any doubts. One coat of alcohol based Bin should have done it. All I can say is to strip it down to the metal, wood or whatever it is… or get a new door. Sorry I cannot help more. I used minwax gel stain in coffee for the top only of my antique vanity.
I am unhappy with it because now matter what and how much waiting I do, there are still sort of haze streaks in a couple of places. I feel I have had it with gel stain. If not, just take care not to damage your flooring or the walls around the wood you want to paint. Be sure to get all the excess TSP off the wood, and allow it to dry completely after cleaning. Lightly sand the surface of the wood, and thoroughly brush away any dust. Applying oil-based or shellac primer is a required step when painting over stained wood.
Stain is oil-based, so latex primers won't adhere to it properly. You'll need to allow about two days of drying for an oil-based primer.
Shellac primer dries in a couple hours, but for best results let it dry overnight. Stain colors have a habit of seeping through paint, so ask your paint supplier to tint the primer to the same or similar color as the stain you're painting over. One advantage to using a shellac primer is that it will be easier to paint over with a latex paint.
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